Houtouwan was once a prosperous fishing village, with a 1980s population of more than 3,000 residents. However, because of its remote and hard-to-access location, its residents started to move out in the ’90s.
In 2002, the village was officially depopulated and merged into a nearby village.
After decades of abandonment, empty houses in the ocean-facing, cliffside village — some of them still furnished — have been taken over by a blanket of lush climbing plants.
A ghost village-turned-tourist hotspot
Houtouwan soared to fame among Chinese netizens in 2015 when a series of mesmerizing photographs of the deserted village went viral.
Instead of celebrating its new-found popularity, the officials of Shengsi Archipelago were cautious of the impact brought by the sudden surge of tourists.
“Houtouwan of Shengshan hasn’t been equipped with the conditions to open to tourists… We urge visitors to preserve its tranquility for now.”
But now, it’s ready for tourists. Sort of.
After more than two years of planning, Houtouwan — despite still being comparatively off-the-grid — has implemented a few new moves to control and monetize the boom.
A new viewing platform opened last year, offering an overview of the village from afar (for a ticket price of $3).
Visitors can hike around the hilly village for a fee of $8. Signs are put up outside empty houses to warn tourists about the possible danger of entering the deteriorating structures.
A popular weekend trip from Shanghai
The Shengsi Archipelago, around 40 miles from Shanghai, is the only archipelago officially declared a National Scenic Area in China.
With more than 400 islets, the archipelago is a popular weekend getaway from Shanghai.
Shengshan is the easternmost island and, together with neighboring Gouqi Island, is famous for its seafood.
It boasts one of the biggest fish farms in China.
How to get there
The best time to see the village is summer — when vegetation is in full bloom.
Getting to Houtouwan isn’t a straight-forward trip. Limited ferry services run between mainland China and Gouqi Island (the island is connected to Shengshan by a short bridge).
Usually, only one ferry ride departs daily from Shanghai’s Shenjiawan Pier (at 9:15 a.m.) and Zhoushan Shenjiamen Banshengdong Dock (at 7 a.m.).
The ride takes around three hours and will drop you off at Gouqi Island, where you can get a local taxi to Houtouwan.
Overnight visitors can reserve their return tickets and taxi ride in advance through their hotels or bed-and-breakfasts.